My new reality

Ok, onto the main event: we are currently on ‘vacation’ (as if you need a vacation from retirement) in Utah, hiking and eating our way through the national parks out west. We are travelling with Greg’s younger brother Bob and his lovely wife Tina. We started in Las Vegas. None of us appreciated the crowds, the heat, the over the top hotel decorations, the super slutty outfits, or the ever present cigarette smoke. Well, maybe Greg liked the outfits. We did like the Bellagio fountains, those graceful and sometime explosive dancing waters seen at the conclusion of Oceans 11. One night was plenty for us. That and I lost $20.00 on the $0.25 slots. (Hey, does anyone know where the cent sign is on my tablet?)

Next stop, Zion National Park! We drove up the next morning 2.5 hr to Springdale, the town at the entrance to Zion. The landscape enroute for the most part was barren, dry landscape full of tumbleweeds. Crossing from Nevada to Arizona to Utah the landscape changed significantly as well as the time zones. Spires and cliffs and valleys of red sandstone began appearing marking our arrival at Zion. This national park was formed in 1919 and is celebrating its centennial. Many of the peaks and plateaus were biblically named, having been settled by Mormons and Methodists. We arrived at our hotel, the Cliffrose Lodge, located adjacent to the entrance of Zion and in between more towers of red rock. We immediately changed into hiking gear and walked over to the park. Greg had the foresight and good timing to purchase the senior national park pass when he first retired saving us a bundle. We hopped the shuttle and headed directly to Angel’s Landing trailhead. The hike took us up many switchbacks with treacherous edges and phenomenal views (I hated Walter’s Wiggles). The crowds were thinning as it was mid-afternoon (Zion is getting pretty popular) so we hiked up fairly fast (well, I kinda lagged). Greg, Bob, and Tina went all the way up to Angel’s Landing, that part of the hike with lots of scrambles and only a chain to steady yourself along a narrow ridge, but too close to the precipitous edge for my liking. We rewarded ourselves with beer and a delicious Mexican dinner at Bit and Spur and then slept soundly.

We breakfasted at Cafe Soleil next door and headed back to the park. The morning was cool but as soon as the sun got a little higher it got pretty hot, in the 80s with clear blue skies. We hiked the Kayenta trail to Upper and Middle Emerald Pools, less elevation than Angel’s Landing and with a nice serene destination. As it was still morning the trail was pretty quiet but on our return we noticed the crowds arriving. We then hiked the Grotto paved trail to the Lodge and then onto the Sand Bench trail to the Court of the Patriarchs, more of a horse trail (with plenty of evidence to avoid stepping on). We didn’t like this sandy trail but the Court of the Patriarchs was spectacular. After a brief stop at the Museum to watch the requisite park movie (this one probably filmed in the 60’s) we headed out for a late lunch at the Zion Brewery and a delicious elk burger. It was so good we ordered again the next day. We spent time hot tubbing and Bob was able to catch most of the Ohio State football game (they won). Dinner at the Spotted Dog was wonderful (blackened tuna for Greg and trout for me) and then to bed, again, exhausted.

Our last day in Zion we hiked up the Narrows about 3 or 4 miles wading in ankle to hip deep 60deg F pristine water over rocks and between enormous cliffs. The walls of this ‘Narrow’ canyon rise 100’s of feet while often separated only 20 feet. Although without cardio exertion we were exhausted from the effort to wade carefully while maintaining balance and watching others with their poor shoe selections or carrying babies. Am I getting old and judgey? Anyway, we returned to the hot tub and pool and dined again at Bit n Spur (after beers and elk burgers at the brewery).

Our last morning we went through the tunnel in the park to the Canyon Overlook trail on our way to Bryce. The trail took us over and under arches and cliffs and boulders and tarantulas. Yes, a giant, nasty spider blocked our path but we prevailed after reviving Tina. The viewing area allowed for some rock scrambles and awesome views down the Zion valley. I’m running out of superlatives to describe this place. Outstanding. We then left Zion but not before encountering big horned sheep grazing roadside.

Next stop: Bryce.

My recommendations for Zion if you are visiting in the near term:
Restaurants fill up, so make reservations if you can. Springdale has some markets and a state liquor store.
Get a senior or annual pass! $80.00 at recreation.gov
Our visit was in the somewhat cooler October season, although it got into the 80s in the sunny daytime. It was very dry, so bring saline nasal spray and moisturizer and drink water! The park offers water filling stations and Springdale also has filling stations near the park entrance. We stayed right near the park entrance so we walked in. The Cliffrose Lodge was very nice , quiet and clean. They privded laundry det for their single washer/dryer unit. The pool and hot tub were very nice. Apparently the inside lots do fill up by 8:30 or 9:00 am and probably earlier during peak season. There are many parking lots in Springdale and there is a free shuttle through town to the park entrance. Check on parking pricing and availability in other seasons so you can know what to do in advance. I recommend getting there earlier in the day because the trails do get crowded and the in-park shuttle lines are longer later. Or, go later in the day when everyone else is heading out and there may be more shade on the trails.
Angel’s Landing via Scout’s Landing is a pretty strenuous hike (1500 ft elevation gain, approx 5 mi RT) but the views are spectacular. We did it in about 4.5 hours. Our group probably could have done it in less than 4 hours without me. The trail is paved to Scout’s Landing.
Upper Emerald Pool via Kayenta trail had only 200 ft elevation gain during this 3 mi 2.5 hr RT hike with some ups and downs but great views throughout. The middle and upper pools were quiet and serene, again, we arrived early and the crowds followed so was likely less serene later. The upper pool was inaccessible from the lower trail. Check before arriving at the Zion park website (https://www.nps.gov/zion for trail closures and other notices as there are random landslides and rock falls.
The Grotto trail, 0.5 mi with little elevation change, is a lovely paved trail from shuttle stop 6 Zion Lodge to 5. The views are amazing and there’s some wildlife about (muledeer and turkeys).
Sand Bench horse trail from shuttle stop 5 to 4 Canyon Junction was not enjoyable. The trail was deep sand and hot but a long 1.5 miles. And the horse leavings. However, I do recommend walking out behind shuttle stop 4 to the Court of the Patriarchs a few hundred yards uphill through a meadow. Great views.
The museum was a bit lacking in good info but prob worth a visit. Ask the rangers anything, they’re very helpful.
The Riverwalk at Temple of Sinawava shuttle stop 9, nay, even the shuttle ride out to stop is spectacular. The Riverwalk is a 1 mi paved fairly level scenic walk out to the start of the Narrows river wading. The Narrows river wading was somewhat treacherous, requiring good knees and ankles, at least, better than mine. Again, we arrived early and had quiet crowds but many more people were about later, say, after noon, which became annoying. We rented boots and neoprene socks (and Tina, pants) and a wooden pole from the outfitters at the park entrance. They were handy to have as the water was cool (60deg F). On a hot day this would be amazing but also probably really busy. It was well worth the effort as the narrow canyons and spectacular geological formations were ridiculously picturesque. You can do this with good fitting tevas or old sneakers but it might be slippery. Bring a walking stick or two though expensive hiking poles could take a beating. We went about 3-4 miles upriver but the views are evident immediately so you don’t need to go that far if you’d rather not. People of all ages and abilities were doing this.
We did not do the Watchtower hike but it looks easy and worthwhile. We did not do Kolob Canyon though they say the crowds are lighter there, but it’s a 2 hr drive drive around the park to the north. Apparently you can drive through the canyon for some great views.
The Canyon Overlook trail is outstanding. It’s only about 1.5mi RT and some ups and downs but the hike itself is so cool and the viewing from the end is amazing. There’s parking immediately after the tunnel exit and also some pulloffs further down. If you are in a larger vehicle like a camper you may need a permit for the tunnel. Highly recommended.

Favorites: the Narrows, Upper Emerald Pool, Canyon Overlook.

BTW, gas is way more expensive in Nevada than in Utah.