My new reality

Onto Machu Picchu! (Quechua for “old peak”).

We got on the bus for the 30 min drive back to Ollantaytambo to catch the Peru Rail train which took us the 30 or so miles along the Urubamba to the base of Machu Picchu at Agua Calientes. The train was well appointed and the scenery was spectacular as we wound through the valleys with soaring peaks, more Inca terracing, and the raging river alongside. Eventually we came upon the start of the Inca trail where intrepid hikers opt to hike the remaining 27 miles over an 14,000 foot peak to Machu Picchu over 4 or 5 days. The train suited me just fine; we even got sandwiches!

We disembarked at the train station at Agua Calientes and headed through the market to the bus line. These buses wound up the narrow, tight switchbacks to the entrance gate. The views were again, spectacular (am I being repetitive?) But wait! We were booked at the Belmond Sanctuario hotel adjacent to the entrance. We enjoyed another great lunch and then headed over to the Machu Picchu ticket gate. Entrance tickets are timed and we were scheduled for the afternoon when the larger crowds were heading out.

After they checked our tickets and passports, we entered. Plaques memorializing Hiram Bingham, the 1911 ‘discoverer’ of Machu Picchu and also the farmers who were living there when he discovered it, were at the entrance. Just around the corner and there it was! This ancient city built by Inca Emperor Pachacuti around 1450 as a summer palace was laid out before us. Perfectly arranged farm terraces step up the steep slopes to the emperor’s palace. For sure the inhabitants had well developed hamstrings and strong knees. I had my trusty walking poles.

There were ingeniously placed water culverts and catchment pools. The finer, more tightly placed stonework indicated the buildings of importance and the importance of the person that inhabited them. Small rooms were interlinked with walls that leaned inwards and with trapezoidal doors, windows, and niches. The Sun Temple had rounded walls with windows. It was evident the Inca honored the mountains and the sun with their placement of windows and boulders. Windows captured daybreak especially on the winter solstice which indicated the start of planting season. “Eco’s” were huge boulders which were shaped in the silhouette of the peaks nearby. Large courtyards provided a place for social events. Everything had a place and a purpose.

We followed Julian, our guide, who gave us a detailed description of the day to day workings of the palace. Less than 1,000 people lived here at any one time. It took about 10 years to construct and 2 years to excavate less than 500 years later. Despite Hiram Bingham’s anal retentiveness with regards to keeping detailed notes, the excavation was rather haphazardly done. Nevertheless there were some beautiful artifacts recovered as well as graves which helped identify the importance of this city. The artifacts are on display at a museum in Cusco which we visited later.

Afterwards, a few of us went on our own to hike up to the guard’s tower which provided a bird’s eye view of the entire city. It was again, spectacular, and larger than expected. On our way down we encountered a llama head-on wandering the path and with a nod and perhaps a gasp or two (from me) we passed each other and continued on.

Our hotel was so conveniently situated. We had a wonderful dinner too; Greg enjoyed delicious foie gras! The next day we had an early entrance at 7:00 (although they open at 6:00 they would not let us in before our ticket time). The crowds were light but the fog was dense. Everyone wanted to see daybreak from the guard’s tower. A few of us ladies on the tour hiked up just to come right back down as there was no daybreak to be seen. Greg continued on to hike up to the Sun Gate, a col on the ridge above Machu Picchu. After breakfast we re-entered with the rest of the group and the guides to finish our tour and Greg caught up to us later. By 10:00 the sun was out and the glory of Machu Picchu was again revealed. And then we departed.

We went back down the switchbacks with my eyes closed (luckily not the bus driver’s) and to the train station. While waiting for the train we shopped the markets. It was pouring out but we were undercover. The weather on this trip had been most accommodating despite it being the start of the winter rainy season. Rain came only while we were inside, at night, or on the bus. Apparently this was the shaman’s wish!

We trained and bussed all the way back to Cusco, arriving to our hotel late in the evening but not too late for drinks and a snack. We’re back at 12,000 feet so a few had a hard time catching their breath. Greg started on Diamox for altitude sickness although side effects can be the same as the symptoms. He was fine, though. Thanks for asking.